By Gary A.
Edited by Brian M.
Published Aug 8, 2024
Edited on Dec 6, 2024
Explore the world of melee diamonds and learn how these small gems add incredible sparkle and value to engagement rings in this comprehensive guide.
They say that some of the best things come in the smallest packages, and we know that to be true since engagement rings tend to come in a box that is not much bigger than a walnut shell. However, we can take it one step further and talk about melee diamonds, which are some of the smallest you’ll find in the world of fine jewelry.
So, while they may be small, they do a huge amount for engagement rings. Chances are, if you’ve been gathering ideas already for the design of your engagement ring or wedding band, you have come across – and fallen head over heels for – a design featuring melee diamonds.
Melee diamonds are particularly small diamonds – much smaller than you would expect to see as the center stone of an engagement ring. Technically speaking, a melee diamond weighs no more than 0.2 carats – although, at times, a diamond slightly larger than that may be referred to (or used as) a melee diamond.
To put that into perspective, a melee diamond is about 1/5 of the size of a standard diamond used in the center setting of an engagement ring in the US. 0.2 carats equates to around 3.8 millimeters in diameter for a round brilliant diamond.
In most instances, melee diamonds are even smaller than that. If you are familiar with the pavé setting – which, as one of the most popular ring design options out there, you should be – then you’ll have seen plenty of examples already of melee diamonds in action. Even at those tiny sizes, they pack a huge punch in terms of sparkle.
Melee diamonds are not as visually impressive as the sort of diamonds you would find in center stones, but they play a vital (and irreplaceable) role in so many ring designs – and other jewelry designs, too.
Since they’re so much smaller than ‘normal’ sized diamonds, melee diamonds sparkle very differently. Those displays of fire and brilliance are much more ‘glittery’ in appearance – very effervescent and lively under light sources. When you get a melee diamond on its own, it’s not hugely impressive – but, when they’re set alongside one another or ‘clustered’ together, the scintillation is really eye-catching.
That’s what they’re there for – adding extra sparkle and beauty to rings, rather than representing the main focal point.
Before we dive deeper into the specifics, here are some practical tips to help guide your decision-making process:
When purchasing a diamond engagement ring adorned with melee diamonds, paying attention to detail is crucial. These tiny diamonds play a significant role in the ring’s overall brilliance and aesthetic. Below are practical tips to guide you through the process, ensuring you make an informed decision.
Now that you’ve got these practical tips, use Jeweler AI below to find the perfect engagement ring that suits your style and budget:
When it comes to these tiny stones, the cut is paramount. Different cuts can drastically change the overall appearance of the ring, along with its light performance.
When selecting melee diamonds, you’ll encounter two primary cuts: single cut and full cut. Here’s what you need to know…
Single cut diamonds have 17 to 18 facets, giving them a simpler, yet elegant look. This type of cut is often used in vintage-inspired jewelry, where the emphasis is on understated sparkle and a timeless appearance.
On the other hand, full cut melee diamonds boast 57 to 58 facets – the same number as a standard round brilliant cut diamond. This allows them to catch the light in more intricate ways, offering a dazzling display of brilliance and fire. Full cut melee diamonds are typically favored in contemporary designs where maximum sparkle is desired.
Choosing between single cut and full cut melee diamonds ultimately comes down to the style of your ring and personal preference. If your design leans towards a vintage or classic aesthetic, single cut melee diamonds might be the perfect choice, providing a soft, elegant glimmer. For modern designs or if you’re looking for that extra dazzle, full cut melee diamonds will add a stunning, lively sparkle to your piece.
So, you know what melee diamonds are now. But, if you haven’t done your research on diamond engagement ring designs, how are these melee diamonds even used? How much do they really offer a design? As it turns out, a lot…
One of the most popular ways to utilise melee diamonds is in the creation of a Halo. Without these small and dainty diamonds, a halo wouldn’t be possible – instead, it would appear more like a plain bezel encircling the center stone.
You can find out everything you need to know about halos here. Suffice to say that they remain one of the most popular options out there for engagement rings, not least of all because of the extra grandeur and wow factor they bring to the center stone (without overwhelming it).
As we mentioned above, pavé is another solid argument in favor of the melee diamond. Characterized by a neat row of melee diamonds set along the length of the shank, this setting type offers extra sparkle without adding more bulk to the center setting, as in the case of the halo.
Read all about the pavé here.
Melee diamonds are also used in features like the channel setting and, in some cases, flush set wedding bands, too.
Melee diamonds don’t sparkle like bigger diamonds, that much we can all agree on. They are less impressive, but that’s no bad thing. The point of the center stone is to attract the most attention – that’s why it’s there – but support acts will make it look even better, rather than detracting from it.
The superior sparkle of that center stone will shine through (pun intended), and the glitter of the melee diamonds will boost the overall light performance surrounding the ring. That’s how they enhance your main diamond.
melee diamonds are not scrutinized to the same degree as center stone diamonds. Because they’re so much smaller, factors like color and clarity aren’t quite so important. It’s a lot harder to spot a minor inclusion in a melee diamond than it is in, say, a 5 carat diamond.
For this reason, jewellers typically purchase mele diamonds in larger batches. These batches tend to be delivered in special envelopes, and each envelope will be marked as containing a specific quality level. So, a jeweler might receive an envelope of melee diamonds with a particular color and clarity grade range – say, G-H and VS1-VS2.
Ensuring melee diamonds are similar is particularly important when it comes to color, since minor discrepancies in color can be a lot more obvious when two diamonds are placed alongside one another.
Melee diamonds are much cheaper than other diamonds since they are a very common by-product of the diamond-cutting process. When a diamond cutter works to achieve the right shape for a diamond from a rough stone, off-cuts are very often turned into melee diamonds.
A small volume of melee diamonds – enough for a standard ring design – can cost as little as a few hundred dollars to $1,000+, depending on the quality of the diamonds. Generally speaking, the cost of melee diamonds should fall comfortably within the budget you set for the ring (that all-important 20% of your overall budget).
Melee diamonds are an important part of many ring designs. True, they will never be the most important aspect of an engagement ring, and people are much more likely to focus on the center diamond than the other melee stones that come up but that doesn’t mean that they don’t serve a very important purpose for the design.
Boosting sparkle, giving the design that glittery look, and lending an extra touch of luxury to your engagement ring are all very valid jobs in our opinion.
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