By Gary A.
Edited by Brian M.
Published Aug 8, 2024
Edited on Dec 6, 2024
Discover the secrets behind the timeless allure and unmatched brilliance of natural diamonds, and why they remain the ultimate symbol of love and commitment.
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Nature has no trouble making beautiful things, but of all those creations, diamond represents a singularity. Like a star plucked from the night sky – though, in reality, driven slowly from the very depths of the earth – a natural diamond is as fascinating as it is striking. That unmatched dance of fire – light in all different colors – and brilliance – the sparks of pure white – that begins every time the diamond is brought into the light, its deceptive strength, and its rarity all make it the stand-out choice for popping the ultimate question.
In other words, we’d find it hard to run out of reasons against using a diamond for your engagement ring – but, these days, does it really have to be natural? Lab grown diamonds are identical in structure and appearance to natural diamonds – so much so that both can be referred to as ‘real’ diamonds.
We’ve put together comprehensive guides to lab grown diamonds – including the two leading methods of HPHT and CVD – and when they can be the right choice for an engagement ring. But, for now, we’re going to look at the leading arguments in favor of natural diamond – that OG of romance.
For starters, diamonds have been the prevailing choice for thousands of years – even way back in ancient Greece. Of course, back then, diamonds didn’t look anywhere near as impressive as they do now – they were rough stones that appeared very rarely in the sediment washed in by the rain.
This affinity with the strength and beauty of diamond has persisted across generation after generation, and this is a part of what makes an engagement ring so special. It’s not just about the promise made by two people, but the persistence of true love and perfect matches across most of human history.
Before we dive deeper into the specifics, here are some practical tips to help guide your decision-making process:
Tip 1. Certification is Crucial:
Now that you’ve got these practical tips, use Jeweler AI below to find the perfect engagement ring that suits your style and budget:
We have put together a full guide to how natural diamonds form, and it’s well worth reading if you can’t shake that ingrained bias toward natural diamond. It’s not just about the status symbol of an earth-made (and, as a result, rarer diamond). It’s also about the ability for something so perfect and beautiful to emerge from the wildest of circumstances.
In a nutshell, diamonds are formed deep underground, where heat and pressure are unlike anything you can imagine.
As you probably already know, diamonds are formed from pure carbon, although no diamond in existence is made solely from carbon. The diamond itself is carbon, but other pollutants become entwined within the diamond’s atomic structure. This is what creates inclusions, and the appearance of color in clear diamonds for instance, nitrogen is responsible for the yellow hue that diamonds from the lower end of the GIA’s color spectrum carry.
Intense pressure and heat, over the course of millions of years, are what create the unique atomic structure of diamond. This is, of course, the basis of HPHT. However, while a lab grown diamond can be formed in a matter of weeks or months, a natural diamond takes significantly longer to form.
This adds to natural diamonds mystique. Lab grown diamonds are a clever useful alternative to natural diamonds, not least of all because they are significantly cheaper. However, a lot of shoppers want to invest in the history of the diamond, not just its face value.
The fact that we can hold diamonds in our hands is a testament to the incredible journey each one makes. Since diamonds form many miles beneath the earth’s surface, each one that makes it to the surface has completed one of the unlikeliest journeys imaginable.
True, a lot of diamonds and mined from underground deposits, but by that point, most of the journey from the start point to the end point has been completed. It’s all the result of tectonic activity, volcanic eruptions on the ground, and something a little more mysterious.
Diamonds are not an endangered resource, what is often said is that diamonds, or, more specifically, natural diamonds, are a finite resource, and extracting them from the earth is very difficult in most cases. Some diamonds can be found in alluvial deposits, and those are much easier to recover -– but, on a larger scale, recovering enough diamonds to meet demand is tricky.
Add that to the fact that the earth can’t simply produce more diamonds when its natural reserves are depleted -– and, of course, the fact that every diamond making it close enough to the surface to be recovered requires a great deal of chance, and you can see why diamonds are considered a very rare product.
Lab diamonds and natural diamonds follow the same system for grading quality. In either case, we would only recommend that shoppers focus on diamonds that have been graded by the GIA. The GIA integrated lab diamond grading into their offerings back in 2007 and, since then, has applied the same key metrics to both.
What is particularly useful is the fact that the GIA specifies in its report whether the diamond in question is natural or lab grown. While some shoppers don’t mind either way, a lot of people are very sure which side of the debate they fall on. It’s impossible to tell the difference between a lab grown and a natural diamond in person, with the naked eye, even if you are a professional. Very experienced gemologists and diamond graders, as well as jewelers, can identify a lab grown diamond when viewing it under the microscope. Even then, the differences are barely tangible.
We’ve put together a full guide to using the Four Cs to understand the quality of your diamond. Below, however, we run through the basics.
Carat is a measurement of weight. Specifically, carat refers to 0.2 milligrams, so a 5 carat diamond would weigh 1 gram. It’s commonplace for first-time shoppers to assume carat is a measurement of size, since that what most engagement ring buyers are concerned by. It’s more common for someone to ask about the size of a rock, rather than how much it weighs.
It’s important not to get too hung up on the subject of carat weight. As you get more familiar with the rest of the four Cs and the value of natural diamonds, you’ll start to figure out what carat range you can afford to shop from.
Jewelers often refer to the magic carat weights. This term simply refers to any carat weight that is particularly popular among shoppers. For instance, one carat diamonds are among the most popular in the US. A 0.95 carat diamond is nowhere near as popular, and, as a result, costs significantly less. If you want the very best value for money, it’s important to avoid the magic sizes.
Color is a lot more important than it might sound at first, particularly if you are looking at clear or white diamonds. Most of us are used to seeing diamonds that are fully transparent and icy in appearance, with no hint of color lurking beneath the surface. However, it is far more common for a transparent diamond to be afflicted by a slight trace of color than you might realize.
As we mentioned above, nitrogen causes yellow discoloration within a diamond. This discoloration cannot be removed and significantly impacts the value of a diamond – along with its beauty.
The color scale set forth by the GIA runs from grade D to grade Z, with D representing total colorlessness (perfection) and the representing the strongest degree of color found in transparent diamonds.
Again, as we mentioned above, the conditions under which natural diamonds formed millions of years ago meant that traces of pollution were invariably caught within the diamond’s atomic structure. These pollutants create inclusions – or, in other words, small black spots, clouds, and hairline fractures buried deep beneath the diamond surface.
Some of these inclusions are so subtle that they cannot even be seen under 10 times magnification – this is rare but leads to a clarity grade of FL or IF (flawless or internally flawless). Most inclusions, however, are significant enough that they can be seen with 10 times magnification –- or, in a worst-case scenario, without magnification at all.
Some people like the inclusions within a diamond. Salt and pepper diamonds are growing increasingly popular and, as the name suggests, feature many small specks beneath the surface that give the appearance of salt and pepper having been sprinkled over the top. A big part of what makes these diamonds popular is the fact that these ‘salt and pepper’ acts as something of a fingerprint for the diamond. It tells the story of its ancient formation.
Cut is not a result of a diamond formation, so you’ll need to think about it exactly the same whether you opt for a natural diamond or a lab grown diamond. An exquisite cut is essential. Poor cuts lead to dull, lifeless, low brilliance and low fire diamonds. In other words, diamonds without sparkle.
A lot of people imagine lab grown diamonds as forming in the shapes we’re used to seeing them in when they make it to jeweler’s windows. This is far from reality. Natural and lab grown diamonds form in the same rough shapes, and need to be cut into the faceted, brilliant shapes we want for our engagement rings.
One of the strongest arguments in favor of lab grown diamonds is the fact that they are significantly cheaper – or, at least, in theory. This all loops back around to the fact that natural diamonds are finite resources, and that, when major minds and alluvial deposits are depleted, we cannot simply make more of them. Natural diamond miners depend on nature to keep providing these deposits, and there is never any guarantee that we won’t one day run out completely.
Of course, that day is very far in the distant future, if it ever comes at all. Still, it means that natural diamonds have a higher price point than lab grown diamonds. It’s not always as simple as that, however. The growing popularity of lab grown diamonds, and the fact that they are energy intensive to create, mean that lab grown diamonds don’t offer the major savings that shoppers expect them to.
Still, there is a disparity between the two.
Natural diamonds have a better long-term value. While secondhand diamonds don’t tend to be worth anywhere near the same as new diamonds, they do hold onto more long-term value than lab grown diamonds.
Most diamonds mined from the earth are very small. While we tend to think of the jeweler industry as placing the greatest demand on diamond mining, diamonds have many different applications around the world. Fortunately for us, in most instances, the diamonds required by other industries are incredibly small – often known as nano diamonds.
While you don’t need to know that in order to buy a beautiful engagement ring, it does pay to know that most of the diamonds produced from natural deposits are very, very small. The bigger a diamond is, the rarer it is. Miners are not constantly recovering diamonds the size of the Koh-i-noor from the earth.
So, high carat sizes are rare – and they are also highly coveted. High demand and low availability is an equation most of us are familiar with, so it shouldn’t come as any surprise that larger diamonds are exponentially more expensive the higher up the scale you go.
Market trends also influence diamond value. For instance, over the past couple of years, Oval diamonds have been particularly popular. At the same time, pear shaped diamonds have seen a real dip in popularity. This means that shoppers looking for a pear shaped diamond have arrived at the perfect time; the shape currently represents one of the cheapest options on the market.
Of course, some things remain above the trend tideline. Round brilliant diamonds have always been the most popular option, ever since the shape was perfected back in the early to mid-20th century. As a result, the round brilliant is the most expensive shape you can choose.
Trends also influence the value of fancy color diamonds. Again, like the round brilliant, clear slash transparent diamonds are always going to be the most popular option. They are the quintessential choice for engagement rings. However, our love of fancy colors will never fade. Red and pink, arguably the most romantic of the fancy color diamonds, are always in high demand from collectors. The trouble is, red and pink represent two of the rarest fancy colors in nature.
The most significant thing to consider if you are choosing a natural diamond over a lab grown diamond is ethics. Natural diamond mining is a complex subject that has evolved a great deal over the past 100 or so years, and a lot of first-time shoppers are still very wary about inadvertently investing in an unethical diamond.
This is one of the reasons why lab grown diamonds have seen such a surge in popularity since the technology was honed. Lab grown diamonds do not rely on small, often rural groups of artisanal miners recovering them from the earth. So, the argument goes, lab grown diamonds are the better choice.
Of course, it’s a lot more complex than that.
The lab grown diamond industry is putting entire countries under more pressure. For Botswana, for instance, diamonds represent a major driving force behind GDP; in 2023, figures suggested that the diamond industry comprised more than 90% of exports. Botswana and every other major diamond-producing country have worked diligently to improve the conditions for miners, and the ethics of the diamond industry in general. The introduction of the Kimberley Process back in 2003 represented a major turning point for the industry. Now, any diamond you purchase within the US from any legitimate jeweler store or vendor will be backed by those efforts to eliminate blood diamonds, child labor, exploitation, and unsafe working conditions.
Mining takes a considerable toll on the surrounding environment, but work has also been done 2 mitigate those risks. For instance, Canada represents a perfect example to other diamond-producing nations of how the local flora, fauna, and communities can be protected by the industry, rather than threatened by it.
Thanks to all these efforts, it’s now less important than ever before for shoppers to worry about their diamond’s origins. However, we believe that anyone investing in a diamond should be aware of the history and evolution of the industry at large so that they can feel confident in their choice.
It’s no longer relevant for lab grown diamonds to be referred to as synthetic. The GIA stopped classifying lab grown diamonds as synthetic back in 2019 and, thanks to their identical chemical composition, it is true that lab grown diamonds are real diamonds.
However, whether or not you consider the two equal comes down to personal preference. Some shoppers have no preference one way or the other, while others feel very sure about which side of the debate they want to fall on.
At face value, there isn’t much difference. The real difference lies in the back story, and some people really care about the symbolic meaning attached to their engagement ring as much as they do its appearance.
On paper, natural diamonds have very few distinctive qualities. Natural and lab grown diamonds are made of the same chemicals. They are just as strong and just as capable of producing a vibrant sparkle. They have the same mass and the same refractive properties.
The visual differences between the two are only apparent to very experienced professionals. Even then, they require special tools to be able to see them. When your diamond is set within your engagement ring, it will be impossible for anyone admiring it to figure out whether it is natural or lab grown.
So, why bother investing more into a natural diamond when you could get a larger stone for less money if you go to the lab grown route? For starters, because natural diamonds are their traditional, classic, OG choice. When you give someone an engagement ring, you are not just solidifying a commitment, but partaking in a ritual that has subsisted through generations of couples.
What’s more, the very reason diamond became the clear choice for engagement rings is tied up in its history. Yes, diamonds are beautiful stones, but so are a lot of other gemstones. A diamond’s ancient history holds a great deal of symbolic meaning for a relationship; that very same diamond on her finger has existed throughout and beyond human history. You just can’t replicate that with a lab grown diamond, even if you can replicate the sparkle.
So, what’ll you have? On the one hand, you can pay slightly more for a diamond that truly lives up to our expectations of what an engagement ring should be. On the other, you can be shrewd, and you can pay a little less for a stone that looks and acts just like a diamond – and, for all intents and purposes, is a diamond – but doesn’t have that historic sentiment attached to it.
There really is no right or wrong way to do it, so long as you are happy with the end result – and so long as she says yes!
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