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Pros and Cons of Bezel Settings: What Jewelers Don’t Tell You!

By Gary A.

Edited by Brian M.

Published Aug 17, 2021

Edited on Oct 15, 2024

With its sleek design and added security, a bezel setting offers a modern way to showcase your diamond while providing a striking balance between beauty and durability.

Navigate This Guide:

  • Introduction
  • 7 Practical Tips and Considerations for Buying a Diamond Engagement Ring with a Bezel Setting 
  • Why Bezel Setting Engagement Rings Are So Popular 
  • Security and Aesthetics: The Bezel Advantage
  • Customizing Your Bezel Setting
  • Bezel Settings and Cost
  • Conclusion
  • 7 FAQs

Introduction

While, for many shoppers, minimizing the impact their setting on the diamond is a top priority, there is certainly something to be said for making a ‘statement’ with it instead. Gold and platinum are easily the most beautiful of all the precious metals, and incorporating them more into the design of the ring – rather than using them as sparingly as possible – is gaining popularity pretty fast.

Easily one of the most effective ways to make a statement with your precious metal is to opt for a bezel setting, which intentionally draws the eye not only to the diamond but to that distinctive flash of gold or glint of platinum, too.

A great choice for anyone looking to make a statement, and go against the grain.

Introducing: Half Bezel Settings

As the name suggests, the half bezel does not wrap all the way around the diamond. Instead, it may be used to border two corners or sides of the diamond, in order to give it more opportunity to let in light.

This is an excellent option for those who value the sleek, modern appearance of the bezel setting but are afraid of ‘blocking’ too much of the diamond from the light. For this reason, it may be a good option to consider if your diamond is on the small side, or if there are some minor errors in the diamond’s cut that you would prefer to ‘mask’ with some clever use of the bezels.  

Before we dive deeper into the specifics, here are some practical tips to help guide your decision-making process:

7 Practical Tips and Considerations for Buying a Diamond Engagement Ring with a Bezel Setting 

  • Tip 1: Assessing the Bezel Thickness: Examine the thickness of the bezel setting carefully. A thicker bezel offers more security but can make the diamond appear smaller. Opt for a balance that enhances the diamond’s size while ensuring its safety. 
  • Tip 2: Evaluating the Type of Bezel Setting: Decide between a full and a partial bezel setting. A full bezel encircles the entire diamond, offering maximum protection but less visibility. A partial bezel exposes more of the diamond, allowing for greater light reflection and sparkle.
  • Tip 3: Checking Diamond Visibility and Light Exposure: Look at how the bezel setting impacts the diamond’s visibility and its interaction with light. A well-crafted bezel should enhance the diamond’s beauty without significantly reducing its brilliance. 
  • Tip 4: Inspecting the Craftsmanship and Fit: Pay attention to the craftsmanship. The bezel should be smoothly and securely fitted around the diamond without any gaps or unevenness, as this can affect both the appearance and the durability of the setting. 
  • Tip 5: Considering the Metal Type and Color: Choose a metal type and color that complements both the diamond and the wearer’s style. Remember that the metal color can influence the perceived color and brilliance of the diamond, especially in a bezel setting. 
  • Tip 6: Understanding the Impact on Ring Profile and Comfort: Consider the ring’s profile and how it sits on the finger. Bezel settings can be bulkier than other styles, so it’s important to choose a design that is comfortable for everyday wear. 
  • Tip 7: Analyzing the Style and Aesthetics: Reflect on the aesthetic appeal of the bezel setting. Bezel settings offer a unique, modern look and can be designed in various styles, from simple and sleek to intricate and detailed. Choose a design that aligns with the wearer’s personal style and preferences.

Now that you’ve got these practical tips, use Jeweler AI below to find the perfect engagement ring that suits your style and budget:

Why Bezel Setting Engagement Rings Are So Popular 

Traditional, solitaire engagement rings utilize prong settings, which curl over the diamond’s edges in order to keep it secure without impeding on its light performance. The idea is to keep as much of the diamond exposed to the light as possible and, for that reason, has proven overwhelmingly popular throughout the years.

More recently, however, jewelers and shoppers have been looking to get a more modern spin on this design and to offer alternatives.

By encircling the diamond within a solid band, the metal looks visually thicker, and it plays a much more prominent role in the overall design. Rather than overpowering the diamond, this rim can help it to ‘pop’ even more, while offering a very secure and practical setting for the gemstone. 

A bezel may be used alongside a halo setting – a great option for smaller center stones, as it adds more sparkle back into the ring – or on its own for a more minimalist style.

Understanding Bezel Thickness and Its Impact 

There are no rules over bezel thickness, although you want it to be thick enough that it won’t be too vulnerable to damage. Many jewelers recommend a thickness of 0.75-1mm, but bezels can be considerably thicker.

A thick bezel also offers more design opportunities. Some bezel settings might feature a number of smaller stones or intricate features along the outer edge, for instance, meaning there will be sparkle from every angle the ring might be viewed from when on the finger.  

princess round and heart shaped diamond rings

Bezel and DIamond Size

The bezel setting does tend to make diamonds look a little smaller, since the edges of the diamonds are ‘clipped’ by the bezel, and it reflects a little less light. If you’re worried about this, then a thicker bezel can create the illusion of an all-around bigger ring, although it won’t compensate for the loss of light performance.

However, every diamond reacts to this setting differently, so this is definitely something to keep an eye on whilst looking between the bezel setting and the more traditional pronged style.

Some diamonds can be enhanced by the bezel, particularly if they’re blemished or chipped, so don’t rule out this setting based on proportion alone.

If you’re working with a diamond that has a lower carat weight, or a three stone ring setting featuring smaller diamonds, then a half bezel setting could be your best bet. Still using this unique design, the half bezel will keep a portion of the diamonds’ edges exposed to the light, minimizing any ‘shrinkage’, and ensuring a great sparkle continues to play across the surface.

Security and Aesthetics: The Bezel Advantage

Taking a look at these designs in person is very important before you commit to the style, but there are a few advantages that you should know about.

The Unique Aesthetic Appeal of Bezel Rings

The first is the aesthetic appeal. Now, any natural diamond will sparkle, although the bezel will put some limitations on the light traveling in and out of your diamond, meaning it won’t sparkle as much as a diamond held within a prong setting.

Don’t let this fool you, however. A good jeweler knows how to work design features around the unique attributes of any diamond, and will always tailor their approach to give it the most complementary setting possible.

Furthermore, the top of the diamond (also known as the table) boasts the largest surface area of the entire diamond, and the bezel setting does not intrude on any of the light that enters or exits the gemstone from above.

One thing to consider here is the diamond’s cut. Diamond cuts with the most sparkle might be better suited to the bezel setting, although a step cut diamond contained within a solid gold bezel can put a vintage spin on this elegant design.

In other words, don’t worry too much about sparkle. Your bezel set diamond will still play with the light beautifully, particularly if you have found an excellent diamond in your price range.

Taking a look at these designs in person is very important before you commit to the style.

Enhancing Diamond Security with Bezel Settings 

The bezel also makes the diamond incredibly secure – a great reason to choose this style if you’re worried about an expensive diamond working itself loose.

A full bezel is naturally more secure than a half-bezel but, either way, the unique way the metal ‘hugs’ the diamond means that it is very unlikely to shift or drop out of the ring.

Customizing Your Bezel Setting

While you can customise your bezel setting, there isn’t a lot of need to, as bezel settings don’t have to be plain. There are plenty of variations already. Some bezels include intricate metalwork featuring beading, scalloping, or designs inspired by more organic shapes such as vines.

Decorative bezels can add a much more vintage feel to this setting style, proving quite how versatile it is. These designs will take considerably longer to draw up and create, but will prove more than worthwhile when your bride-to-be gets to see it for the first time – and, of course, a million times after that.

As we mentioned above, the bezel can also be paired with a halo of accent diamonds – something which may be worth considering if you love the bezel design, but don’t want to sacrifice a lot of sparkle. These smaller diamonds can encircle the bezel, or run around the outer edge, and ‘replenish’ any sparkle lost to the bezel setting – and some!

bezel setting wedding band ring

Bezel Settings and Cost

The bezel uses more metal and, since it needs to fit the shape of the diamond exactly, requires a greater level of skill than a more traditional prong setting.

A part of the cost of any diamond ring – or any piece of fine jewelry, for that matter – is the amount of expertise and time the jeweler put into crafting it. 

To create a perfect bezel setting, our jeweler works hard to understand the unique shape and features of the diamond – to achieve the distinctive look of this design while still seeking to complement that particular gemstone in the best possible way.

And it is possible, and the results are spectacular, but they do come at a premium cost.

Conclusion

The bezel setting makes a strong statement and a strong impact. It offers a new, sleek, modern way to showcase a beautiful diamond and to get the biggest impact out of the precious metals you choose to include within the design.

Furthermore, it’s a highly practical choice, offering the utmost security for your diamond. If your partner has a particularly demanding job or lifestyle, then the bezel could be the secret to finding the perfect ring for her – both in terms of beauty, and security. While prongs and exposed edges will occasionally snag on clothing, for instance, the bezel creates a more ‘streamlined’ shape that won’t catch so easily.

It is also a versatile setting, offering something different to every diamond cut it’s used on. It can bring out the incredible geometrics of step cuts like the Emerald, Asscher and Radiant, complementing those parallel lines with the bold platinum or golden lines of the bezels themselves. It can also, however, highlight the beauty of a round cut diamond, or the distinctive shape of a fancy cut, such as the Heart.

In other words, it’s a setting that brings something different to every diamond it’s used on. It’s different, and it’s modern, but it doesn’t stray too far from the more traditional designs, or work against the simple beauty of a well cut diamond.

We would highly recommend all of our shoppers make a mental note of this design before taking a look at the options on our online store.

7 FAQs

  • Q: What Is a Bezel Setting?
  • A: A bezel setting is a type of ring setting where a metal rim surrounds the perimeter of the gemstone, holding it in place. This setting can be full (completely encircling the stone) or partial (covering only parts of the edges).
  • Q: Does a Bezel Setting Make the Diamond Look Smaller?
  • A: Yes, a bezel setting can make the diamond appear slightly smaller as it covers the edges of the stone. However, the visual impact depends on the bezel’s thickness and design.
  • Q: Is a Bezel Setting More Secure Than Prong Settings?
  • A: Yes, bezel settings are generally more secure than prong settings because the metal rim fully or partially encases the diamond, reducing the risk of it getting dislodged or damaged.
  • Q: Can a Bezel Setting Affect a Diamond’s Sparkle?
  • A: A bezel setting can slightly reduce a diamond’s sparkle by limiting light entry, especially at the edges. However, a well-designed bezel setting can still allow significant light to interact with the diamond, ensuring ample sparkle.
  • Q: What Are the Pros and Cons of a Bezel Setting?
  • A: Pros include enhanced security, a sleek, modern look, and reduced snagging on clothing. Cons can be a reduction in the diamond’s visible size and sparkle, and a potentially bulkier ring profile.
  • Q: How Do I Clean a Bezel-Set Diamond Ring?
  • A: Clean a bezel-set ring using warm, soapy water and a soft brush. Carefully brush around the bezel to remove dirt and grime. Avoid harsh chemicals that can damage the metal and stone.
  • Q: Are Bezel Settings Only Suitable for Diamonds?
  • A: No, bezel settings are versatile and can be used for various types of gemstones, not just diamonds. They are particularly suitable for softer stones that require extra protection.

Discover your perfect bezel setting with JewelerAI – where elegance meets innovation..