By Gary A.
Edited by Brian M.
Published Aug 8, 2024
Edited on Dec 6, 2024
Explore the allure and complexities of invisible setting engagement rings, from their ability to enhance the diamond’s prominence by minimizing visible metalwork to practical considerations about maintenance and durability involved in choosing such a distinctive style.
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Before we dive deeper into the specifics, here are some practical tips to help guide your decision-making process:
Now that you’ve got these practical tips, use Jeweler AI below to find the perfect engagement ring that suits your style and budget:
Where do you go simple or extravagant, sophisticated or blingy, there’s no getting around the fact that an engagement ring comprises two parts: a diamond and the ring. You can’t get a diamond on her finger without that bit of metal work, and you probably can’t get much of an enthusiastic yes out of her without that diamond.
But what if you could? We’re not talking about doing away with the diamond but the metal work. If you want the entire spotlight to be on the diamond, without any other distractions or details that draw away from it, how far can you go?
That depends on what you’re willing to sacrifice, but we can tell you exactly where to start: with invisible setting engagement rings.
Back in the day – and by that, we mean the Victorian and Edwardian eras, when fine jewelry really started to come into its own – it was all about the ornate, the complex, the extravagant, and the gregarious. Art nouveau and Gothic styles both inspired designers, fashion moguls, and jewellers to cram as many details and extras into a piece as they could. Decadence was the name of the game, not only because it flaunted wealth but because it displayed quite how sophisticated the wearer’s tastes were.
Over the years, it’s not like we fell out of love with detailed design, but that we made space for a new love: simplicity and minimalism. No more did jewelry have to be complex and heavy with detail in order to seem beautiful. Instead, we could have an appreciation for form and basic elements and their intrinsic beauty.
This is where we really started to lean into invisible settings and simpler designs. With diamond-cutting methods advancing beyond our busiest daydreams, the need to showcase the diamond without any distractions grew ever stronger. And, as the solitaire became the leading choice for engagement rings, we all grew a little more open to the idea of stripped-back, basic design in the name of showcasing the star of the show.
The simplest designs are often the most complex. A diamond is a very, very valuable object, not just financially but sentimentally. Entrusting a diamond to any ring design can be daunting at first, particularly if that design comprises only the most basic elements. Floating diamond engagement rings, for instance, create the illusion of absolutely no metal work at all. What little metal work there is has to be very strong, and very capable of keeping a diamond safe for decades.
As a result, only the most skilled jewellers will ever attempt to tackle invisible settings.
Imagine looking at someone’s ring finger and seeing only an exquisite, beautifully cut diamond. Even as he leans in closer, the structural elements are barely visible. For all intents and purposes, it’s just a beautiful diamond floating there, as if by magic.
It’s a compelling thought, but also a daunting one. You don’t see many invisible settings out in the wild – naturally, of course!
One of the main draws of an invisible setting is its ability to make a diamond appear as big as possible. Without any metal work masking the edges of the stone – not even prongs – there’s no chance of the diamond appearing to be shrunk by its own setting.
For contrast, consider the bezel setting. A bezel is a thin strip of metal that runs all the way around the perimeter of a diamond. It holds the diamond from all sides at once, covering the girdle and, as a result, making the diamond appear slightly smaller than it really is. For those who love the look of a bezel, this loss of size is insignificant enough that they’re not too worried about it, but it can be a deal breaker for those of us who want to make a big impact with a big-looking diamond.
While diamonds coordinate beautifully with metals of all different colors, from classic yellow gold to stark, bright platinum, some people simply prefer the look of a diamond unhindered by any other elements. You can’t avoid metal entirely, but you can make it disappear into the background To create the appearance of a seamless transition between diamond and skin.
No engagement ring style is without its downsides – but there may just be enough benefits to the invisible setting to make it worth your while…
Again, the obvious benefits to an invisible setting are that the diamond appears bigger, more light is able to reach the diamond which means more fire and brilliance can be generated through the crown and table, and the design is much more unique than some of the other styles we’re used to seeing in jewelry store windows.
As always, there are drawbacks to picking this particular setting style. An invisible setting is nowhere near as secure as a bulkier setting. Even a solitaire, with just four prongs at the diamond’s perimeter, offers a lot more security. Of course, a well-made ring is always a lot stronger than it looks. Metal doesn’t move in a hurry, particularly if you choose a strong metal like platinum or 14K gold.
An invisible setting also means that the diamond will be more prominent, and, as a result, more prone to getting caught on sleeves, the linings of handbags, bedding… Anything and everything. Eventually, the wearer will get used to having that diamond on their finger and won’t get themselves into so many knocks and scrapes, but it can be quite a long learning curve when the diamond is prominent on the finger.
Finally, an invisible setting inevitably means that you miss out on all the details and extra flourish is that a more detailed setting allows for. Engraving, accent stones, metal work, and other features are fun to choose from, and they offer a lot more scope in terms of creating a unique and personal ring.
As with any engagement ring, maintenance will be key. You will want to soak the ring regularly in mild, warm soapy water to ensure that any dust or grime isn’t building up in the crevices of the ring. While the setting is designed to be invisible, it’s still there, which means it’s still getting exposed to all the daily pollutants life brings.
You’ll also want to take your ring to a jeweller to get it checked over every so often – probably every six months or so. This is important whatever ring design you choose, but, when it comes to an invisible setting, it’s all the more important. The diamond won’t be as secure, so you’ll want to make sure all those hidden elements that keep it in place aren’t working themselves loose without you knowing.
We won’t dance around the subject: invisible engagement rings aren’t for everyone. While they’re incredible to look at – and they definitely attract plenty of attention – they’re not very practical, and the added benefits of light exposure are minimal.
Invisible engagement rings are much stronger than they look, so your diamond won’t be as precarious as it may appear to be. Even so, some people just can’t get used to walking around with a diamond seemingly balanced on top of their finger.
What’s more, most of us love the metalwork an engagement ring features. Even if we prefer to keep things on the simple side, the band and prongs are a core part of what makes an engagement ring, an engagement ring.
There’s nothing wrong with wanting to strip things back to basics and focus on your diamond. Remember that it’s possible to showcase that stone without resorting to an invisible setting – but, if you’re prepared to feeling like you’re always living life slightly on the edge, don’t let us steer you away from a beautiful and unique choice.
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