By Gary A.

Edited by Brian M.

Published

Edited on

When considering the perfect engagement ring, understanding diamond color can make all the difference in choosing a stone that balances beauty, brilliance, and value.

Navigate this guide:

  • Introduction
  • 8 Essential Tips for Assessing Diamond Color When Buying an Engagement Ring 
  • The Basics of Diamond Color 
  • Decoding the GIA Color Scale
  • The Art of Choosing the Right Color Rating
  • Metal Setting and Its Influence
  • Diamond Shapes and Color Perceptions
  • Color and Price
  • Conclusion
  • 7 Frequently Asked Questions About Diamond Color 

Introduction

When it comes to buying a diamond for the very first time, there are the obvious considerations – shape and, of course, size – and the considerations that only become apparent when you start researching these fascinating stones for the first time.

Most of us, when we hear the word ‘diamond’ will picture the archetypal Round Brilliant – glassy, bright, and sparkling with flashes of both colorful and white light. If you already know the sort of thing you want, you might picture an Emerald cut or Oval – but the moral of the story is it’s probably highly transparent and lustrous.

This is what most shoppers are looking for – and it’s not all that hard to find, provided you understand the concept of diamond color.

It might sound a little contradictory, considering you’re looking for a clear diamond, but the fact is that plenty of diamonds out there feature varying shades of color – a yellowish, brownish tint that can ruin an otherwise beautiful ring – and avoiding it is essential.

Before we dive deeper into the specifics, here are some practical tips to help guide your decision-making process:

8 Essential Tips for Assessing Diamond Color When Buying an Engagement Ring 

  • Tip 1: Understand the Diamond Color Scale Familiarize Yourself with the GIA Scale: Study the GIA diamond color scale, understanding the range from colorless (D, E, F) to light yellow or brown (S-Z). Knowing this scale helps in making an informed choice about the color quality of your diamond. 
  • Tip 2: Compare Diamonds Side by Side Visual Comparison: When possible, compare diamonds side by side. This allows you to see the subtle color differences. Remember, the differences, especially between adjacent color-grades, can be minimal and sometimes not perceptible to the untrained eye. 
  • Tip 3: Consider the Size and Shape Impact Size Matters: Larger diamonds can make color more noticeable. Keep this in mind, especially if you’re considering diamonds larger than one carat. Shape Influences Color Perception: Some shapes, like round brilliants, hide color better than others. In contrast, shapes like emeralds and asschers can make color more apparent. 
  • Tip 4: Choose the Right Metal Setting Metal Color Can Enhance or Diminish: The color of the metal setting can influence the diamond’s appearance. For example, yellow gold can complement lower color-grade diamonds, making them appear less yellow, while white gold or platinum settings might make the yellow tint more apparent. 
  • Tip 5: Evaluate in Different Lighting Conditions Lighting Affects Color Appearance: View the diamond under various lighting conditions. Store lighting can be misleading; natural daylight is the best for observing the true color. Fluorescent and incandescent lights can alter how color is perceived. 
  • Tip 6: Be Mindful of Fluorescence Understand Fluorescence Effects: Some diamonds exhibit fluorescence when exposed to ultraviolet light. In lower color-grades (I to M), fluorescence can make the diamond appear whiter. However, in higher color-grades, it can create a hazy appearance. 
  • Tip 7: Set a Realistic Budget and Expectations Balance Color with Other Factors: Prioritize what matters most to you in a diamond (size, shape, clarity, etc.) alongside color. Sometimes a lower color-grade can offer better value without a noticeable sacrifice in appearance. Remember, the most expensive option isn’t always the best for your specific needs.
  • Tip 8: Side-by-Side Evaluation on White Paper Method for Accurate Color Comparison: To effectively assess the diamond color, place two diamonds side by side on a folded piece of white paper. Ensure the table of each diamond is facing downwards, giving you a side view. This technique helps in isolating the diamond color from other influences and allows for a more accurate comparison, particularly useful when determining subtle differences in color-grades.

Now that you’ve got these practical tips, use Jeweler AI below to find the perfect engagement ring that suits your style and budget:

The Basics of Diamond Color

While diamonds are created from carbon, trace amounts of other chemical elements can become ‘trapped’ within the diamond as it forms. While different chemical elements produce different colors, the yellow coloration found in clear diamonds is caused by nitrogen.

This is incredibly common, and colorless diamonds are considerably rarer than those that contain a slight amount of color – even so slight that we cannot see it without the right lighting, and strong magnification (and an expertly trained eye). Most diamonds bought for engagement rings feature some color, but such a small amount that we will never be able to detect it.

The important thing to remember is that color is a natural phenomenon – and a fascinating subject – although that’s not to say that any of us want our diamonds to feature a noticeable tint of yellow.

Certain shapes – like the Cushion – do reveal it more than others, but the right jeweler will make sure you’re not investing in an off-color stone.

Why Understanding Color Is Important When Choosing a Diamond Engagement Ring 

When it comes to the broader definition of ‘color’ diamonds can be separated into two categories: fancy color diamonds, which can feature a broad range of natural hues of green, blue, purple, red, pink, yellow, brown, and gray, and clear diamonds, which are by far the most common choice for engagement rings.

Fancy color diamonds are assessed and graded differently in gemological labs, even in the case of yellow fancy color diamonds, which are distinguishable from clear diamonds with poor color – and considered far more attractive. Back in 2005, model Heidi Klum wore a canary yellow diamond engagement ring, for instance.

Clear diamonds are assessed against the GIA’s color scale, with clearer diamonds considered far more desirable – and far more valuable – than those that feature any amount of color at all.

Decoding the GIA Color Scale

Every gemological lab and grading organization takes their approach to diamond grading. At WillYou.com, however, we put full trust in the GIA. Over many years, they have proven themselves to be the most consistent, painstaking, and unbiased laboratory, and we advise all of our readers to focus their searches on diamonds that are accompanied by an official GIA report.

Understanding the Color Chart

Diamond color is assessed alphabetically, from D to Z, with D representing colorless diamonds, and Z representing diamonds with significant color.

The grades are divided into the following subcategories in the following diamond color chart:

D, E, FG, H, I, JK, L, MN, O, P, Q, RS, T, U, V, W, X, Y, Z
ColorlessNear ColorlessFaintVery LightLight

From the picture below, you can see that distinguishing between a colorless D-grade diamond and a Light yellow Z-grade diamond is easy. The former possesses an icy white transparency, while the latter appears antiquated – almost like metal that has tarnished over the years. While seeing a standalone diamond may not impress the importance of choosing the right color, looking at a direct diamond color comparison will.

4 diamond color diagram by GIA - d color h color n color z color - Everything You Need to Know About H Color Diamonds
Diagram – Diamond Color Comparison by the GIA

Colorless to Near Colorless: What Your Diamond Color Rating Means

Distinguishing between two consecutive color-grades, however, is significantly harder – and something that only experienced gemologists, jeweler and diamond graders will be able to do. Even then, they will require ideal lighting conditions and strong magnification tools to be able to come to a definitive conclusion over grade.

Consider the fact that the D, E, and F color-grades are all considered to be ‘colorless’. There is undoubtedly a difference between a D-grade diamond and an F-grade diamond, but very few people would ever be capable of identifying it.

While this may seem like it’s going to make the process of choosing a diamond color-grade more complicated, this is an excellent opportunity for shoppers to save considerable money on their diamonds.

We’ll look at diamond color and price in a little more detail below but, for now, keep in mind that color only starts to become noticeable around the J and K color-grades – and, even then, it depends on the size and shape of the diamond in question – although, by that point, prices have already dropped dramatically from what they were for D and E color diamonds.

The Near Colorless ‘Sweet Spot’

Comprising G, H, I and J diamonds, Near Colorless refers to stones that feature only trace amounts of color – typically visible only in the lab, and not when the diamond is being viewed or worn in normal conditions. 

While it may sound like a vague statement to make about something so important, the ‘Near Colorless’ category is recognized and used around the world by those who buy, sell, grade and collect diamonds.

Grading diamond color is a subjective task. Yes, the GIA has studied and logged thousands of diamonds over the years to ensure that the process of grading a diamond’s color is as objective as possible – not to mention the fact that at least two graders will appraise every diamond they receive – but, even then, the process comes down to opinion.

This means that phrases like ‘Near Colorless’ and ‘Very Light’ prove the most effective when assessing color – and they will prove very useful for you, too…

Appraisal and Certification

Each lab has its methods, but the GIA has curated a ‘master set’ of diamonds against which all new diamonds are compared.

This master set demonstrated the very slight differences between each diamond on the GIA’s scale, and offered the most reliable comparison for graders to use as they assess a diamond in need of grading.

As with clarity, the diamond is first studied by two expert graders. If they both draw the same conclusion and assign the same color-grade, this will be printed within the GIA report. If, however, they disagree, then the diamond will be assessed again by an additional grader until a consensus is reached.

As you might have guessed, color is assessed under some very strict lighting conditions, which is why it is easier to spot the presence of even a slight yellow tint in the lab than it is when the diamond is mounted in a ring setting and worn on the finger.

The Art of Choosing the Right Color Rating

Nobody should invest in a diamond without a sound understanding of color in diamonds, and how it will impact the stone’s value and beauty. Here are a few things worth knowing. 

For most people, visible color matters a lot, since it affects the beauty of the stone. That said, color doesn’t matter so much that you have to pay for a diamond with the very highest color-grade.

The spectrum that lies between colorless diamonds and heavily colored diamonds is a long one, and that means that there are plenty of grades where color is present, but not enough to be noticeable to the naked eye.

And, as we mentioned above, a very, very slight amount of color can be easily disguised within the right setting. So, while it matters that you take the time – and invest the right amount of money – into finding a diamond without a clear and noticeable yellow hue, the exact grade you settle on doesn’t matter – and may even prove to be a waste of your money.

The Best Color for a Diamond

Objectively, D is the best color-grade, since it represents diamonds with no color at all. For you – and any other shopper out there – the best diamond grade is found in the Near Colorless range, not the Colorless range.

This all comes down to cost and the fact that any diamond feature you cannot detect with your naked eye is simply not worth paying for.

If you were looking at two diamonds, one featuring a D-color (and a hefty price tag) and the other featuring an H color (and a much lower price), and you found yourself incapable of telling the difference between the two, which one represents the better investment?

The H Color – since opting for the D-color means spending around 20% more, provided the diamonds are of the same weight and quality, on a feature that you will never see.

The prestige attached to D-color diamonds is felt most keenly among collectors, rather than people who are simply buying a diamond for an engagement ring. Don’t fall into the trap of thinking that the ‘best’ grade is the best grade for you.

Balancing Diamond Color with Clarity

So, is diamond Color or clarity more important? Clarity over color, but only just.

A visible inclusion is more likely to be noticed by the naked eye than trace amounts of color. And, while it is possible to enhance a diamond’s color using the right ring setting – and, of course, not looking at it exclusively under the bright, harsh lights of the grader’s lab – most diamond inclusions cannot be hidden so easily.

Another important thing to consider is the fact that color does not disrupt sparkle. Even a yellow diamond will produce plenty of fire and brilliance, provided that it has been cut properly. But, while it may require a pretty extreme inclusion, poor diamond clarity can impact a diamond’s light performance, making for a very disappointing diamond.

What’s more, some inclusions – particularly those located close to the girdle – make a diamond far more vulnerable to breaking.

In both instances, however, what remains most important is how the diamond appears to the naked eye. If a diamond is eye-clean, then any inclusions will be minor, and won’t threaten the beauty, sparkle, or durability of the diamond in any significant way. Similarly, if you can’t spot any color in a diamond, then it doesn’t matter what color-grade is printed within its GIA report.

Still, throwing caution to the wind and going into this process without a care in the world for your diamond’s color-grade isn’t the way to do it. For starters, there are plenty of grades that are just too far down the scale (and too far up) to offer any worthwhile diamonds, so understanding where your ‘sweet spot’ lies with regard to the GIA’s color scale is essential…

Metal Setting and Its Influence

We’ve already mentioned that making a tactful choice about the color of your ring setting can complement a diamond with a trace of color, but what if you’ve already settled on your choice of metal? Many brides favor one particular metal color over another, and an important part of designing your engagement ring is catering to your partner’s preference – and her existing jewelry collection.

The Best Diamond Color for Platinum?

While it does depend on the shape of the diamond you choose, we’d recommend an H or I color for Round Brilliant diamonds, although a higher grade will be necessary for above-average carat weights, or cuts that hold onto color more.

Platinum has many benefits. Not only is it strong and used at a level of purity much better suited to those with allergies to certain metals, but it’s also got a much brighter and crisper shine to it than white gold. If your partner’s jewelry collection features a lot of sterling silver and white gold – and you’ve got the budget to stretch to platinum – then this is a great choice of metal.

This classic Round Solitaire Engagement Ring in Platinum is a stunning example of the combination of a clear diamond with near-luminescent platinum – and, to pull it off, you’ll want to make sure you’re using a diamond with no visible color.

When it comes to one of the more troublesome cuts, a higher color-grade – around G or H – will be needed. If you’re set on platinum, then complementing a Cushion cut diamond with a halo, as in this Cushion Cut Halo Engagement Ring, can help to make doubly sure that you won’t notice any color. Just make sure the melee diamonds in the halo are not graded higher for color than the center diamond.

What is the Best Diamond Color for Yellow Gold?

For a Round Brilliant, we’d recommend you look at I or J color diamonds. For the Emerald or Cushion, we would generally recommend a similar grade since clearer diamonds will reflect the color of the metal and lose transparency anyway.

This is seen as a desirable feature in any diamond set in yellow gold, particularly the Emerald cut. This Emerald Cut Pave Engagement Ring will inevitably absorb some of the color of the setting and shank, so overpaying on a high color-grade – even for a shape that retains color more than the Round Brilliant – is still a risk.

Does Rose Gold Affect Diamond Color?

Yes, the blush of rose gold can be reflected through your diamond – and that is a large part of the reason why it is such a popular choice.

Few things are more romantic than a diamond, but a diamond mounted within a rose gold setting – and gently reflecting that warm, pink hue of the metal is the perfect choice for the more starry-eyed among us.

As with yellow gold, the warm tones of rose gold can appear to lower the color-grade of a very clear diamond by one or two grades, meaning investing in an F diamond and setting it in rose gold is tantamount to investing in an H diamond – only far more expensive.

Again, investing in the highest color-grades here is a waste of money. In the case of this romantic Infinity Princess Cut Engagement Ring in Rose Gold, for instance, the warm hue of the metal, the complementary melee diamonds on the shank, and the placement of the prongs at the stone’s four corners all mean that a diamond with a lower color-grade will be complemented perfectly, and appear clear.

Diamond Shapes and Color Perceptions

While it might not sound all that important, the way a diamond has been cut will have some bearing on how it holds and presents color. This can be highly beneficial to those looking for fancy color diamonds, as shapes that ‘hold’ the color better will prove the most beautiful. The opposite holds true, however, for anyone looking at clear diamonds.

The cushion is infamous for holding color, making it a popular shape for fancy color diamonds. The Emerald cut is also known to retain color, meaning that shoppers may need to aim for a higher color-grade for this shape than they would for, say, a Round Brilliant.

The Emerald cut was intentionally designed to offer a clear view into the depths of the stone. Its wider, open facets are very different to the intricate and scintillating facets of the Round Brilliant and modified brilliant cuts, and that can make finding quality diamonds more difficult. Shoppers will have to aim for a higher clarity grade, and a higher color-grade, to ensure a beautiful stone.

The Cushion’s facet pattern and depth do mean that you’ll want to aim for a G color-grade, particularly if you’re looking at larger diamonds. Shoppers looking at Cushion cut diamonds may want to settle on a yellow or rose gold setting, too, to bring out the transparency of the diamond further.

Color also tends to be more noticeable in sharper points. The tip of the Pear and Heart cuts, for instance, as well as the sharply pointed corners of the Princess, can show color more than the main body of the cuts – although this is more easily disguised by the prongs of the ring’s setting.

Round Brilliance and Color

While the Round Brilliant’s popularity is often put down to its incredible sparkle and classic shape, another lesser-known benefit to this cut is its ability to mask color. This means that many shoppers will find visually perfect diamonds at lower (and much more affordable) color-grades, even as low as a J grade.

The Radiant cut is a fascinating hybrid between the Emerald cut and the brilliant facet pattern found in the Round and fancy cuts. If you love the elegant shape of the Emerald, with its elongated, straight edges and beveled corners, but worry about finding a stone with the clarity and color needed to make the most of its beautiful facets, the Radiant could be an excellent choice.

Fluorescence in Diamonds: Boon or Bane? 

In clear diamonds, a blue tint is caused by fluorescence – another undesirable feature that is graded separately from color.

Fancy blue diamonds are caused by the presence of boron, which can produce varying shades from very pale, sky blue to a deep navy.

Fluorescence, however, impacts plenty of clear diamonds and needs to be considered alongside color. A diamond can be considered totally colorless, and still feature a blue tint due to fluorescence.

You can read more about diamond fluorescence here.

jeweler checking engagement ring for color - Diamond Color

Color and Price

Throughout this article, we’ve suggested that the best color-grade for any shopper is one that finds a beneficial middle ground between high cost, and low quality. This is the same basic principle behind clarity – finding a-grade that ensures visual perfection, even if the diamond’s value has been significantly impacted by invisible flaws.

How Diamond Color Effects Price

The difference between two consecutive color-grades tends to fall between 10% and 15%, although this will be higher for diamonds that are separated by a different color category, and lower as diamond color quality significantly decreases.

You’ll notice a particularly dramatic drop in price if you look at diamonds from the ‘Very Light’ color category, although we would never recommend you waste time on these stones anyway.

Avoiding the highest grades can push your savings well into four figures – potentially covering the cost of a more elaborate ring setting.

By far the most valuable color-grade is D. A 1-carat VS2 D Color Round Brilliant diamond can cost $12,000+, which is almost double that of a comparable H-color diamond.

When it comes to fancy color diamonds, the most valuable colors are pink and red. Their rarity and romantic appearances fetch a premium price among collectors and jewelers – and they’re pretty uncommon sights, particularly in engagement rings.

Conclusion

A good diamond – and, by extension, a good investment – is one that appears colorless when viewed under normal lighting conditions, but which features enough color that the price is significantly lower than it otherwise could be.

Finding a diamond that looks clear is only half the battle. The true test is finding a diamond that looks clear in spite of its color. A D color diamond will look colorless because it is, but it will be a very poor investment; a J color diamond will look colorless in spite of its color, and, for that reason, it will be a very good investment.

7 Frequently Asked Questions About Diamond Color 

  • Q: What is the best color-grade for a diamond?
  •  A: The best color-grade is subjective. While D-grade is technically the highest (colorless), many find G to J grades (near colorless) to offer a great balance of beauty and value. 
  • Q: Does diamond color affect sparkle? 
  • A: Diamond color primarily affects its appearance, not its sparkle. The cut of the diamond has a more significant impact on its sparkle. 
  • Q: Can you see the difference between colorless and near-colorless diamonds? 
  • A: The difference between colorless (D-F) and near-colorless (G-J) diamonds is often subtle and hard to detect with the untrained eye, especially when set in a ring. 
  • Q: Is fluorescence in a diamond good or bad? 
  • A: Fluorescence can be either beneficial or detrimental. In lower color-grades, it can make the diamond appear whiter, but in higher color-grades, it might create a milky appearance. 
  • Q: How does metal color affect the appearance of a diamond? 
  • A: The metal color can influence the perceived color of the diamond. For example, yellow gold can make lower color-grade diamonds appear whiter. 
  • Q: Are diamonds with lower color-grades less expensive? 
  • A: Generally, yes. Diamonds with lower color-grades (K-M) are often more affordable than higher color-grades (D-F) while still offering beauty and quality. 
  • Q: Should I prioritize color over other diamond characteristics? 
  • A: It depends on personal preference. While color is important, balancing it with cut, clarity, and carat weight is crucial for finding the best diamond for your needs and budget.

Explore perfection with JewelerAI’s tailored diamond color recommendations!