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Tension Setting Engagement Rings: A Modern Guide to Romance

By Gary A.

Edited by Brian M.

Published Aug 17, 2021

Edited on Oct 15, 2024

The sleek and modern design of a tension setting engagement ring gives the impression of a diamond floating effortlessly—could this bold and striking style be the perfect choice for you?

Navigate This Guide:

  • Introduction
  • 7 Essential Tips for Selecting a Tension Setting Engagement Ring
  • Understanding Tension Settings
  • The Mechanics Behind the Magic: How Tension Settings Work
  • The Best Diamond Cuts for Tension Settings
  • Ensuring Longevity in Tension Set Rings
  • Tension vs Tension Style Settings
  • Challenges in Resizing Tension Rings
  • Conclusion
  • 7 FAQs 

Introduction

There are so many ways jewelers can seemingly ‘bend’ the laws of physics when they set diamonds in metal, and one of the most fascinating has to be the tension setting.

These rings are capable of wrapping themselves around the finger like a piece of silk, and masking the strong forces operating on that diamond constantly, just to keep it in place. Contemporary, understated and highly sophisticated, they are a great example of the precision wielded by the world’s top jewelers, and their highly specialized tools.

Before we dive deeper into the specifics, here are some practical tips to help guide your decision-making process:

7 Essential Tips for Selecting a Tension Setting Engagement Ring 

When choosing a tension setting for an engagement ring, there are several crucial aspects to consider ensuring both the beauty and the longevity of the ring. Here are the key tips: 

  • Tip 1: Understand the Mechanics of Tension Settings: Familiarize yourself with how tension settings work. These settings hold the stone in place through the pressure exerted by the band’s ends. This knowledge will help you appreciate the craftsmanship and also guide you in assessing the setting’s security. 
  • Tip 2: Assess the Metal’s Strength and Quality: The durability of a tension setting heavily depends on the metal used. Opt for strong metals like platinum or high-quality gold alloys. These materials not only offer a secure hold but also contribute to the ring’s overall aesthetic. 
  • Tip 3: Check the Diamond’s Cut and Shape Compatibility: Tension settings typically suit symmetrical and balanced diamond shapes like round or princess cuts. Ensure the diamond cut you choose fits well with the setting style, as some cuts might not be as secure or visually appealing in a tension setting. 
  • Tip 4: Examine the Setting for Precise Craftsmanship: Look closely at the craftsmanship. The setting should show no signs of irregular cuts or misalignment. Precision is key in tension settings, as even a slight imperfection can affect the diamond’s security. 
  • Tip 5: Consider the Ring’s Resizing Limitations: Be aware that resizing tension set rings can be challenging. It’s essential to have an accurate ring size before purchase, as any future adjustments might be complex and could potentially alter the ring’s tension. 
  • Tip 6: Evaluate the Diamond’s Security: Gently test the diamond’s security in the setting. Although it’s not recommended to apply force, a slight nudge can help you gauge if the diamond is firmly held. Remember, the stone should not move or wobble. 
  • Tip 7: Pay Attention to the Ring’s Overall Balance: A well-designed tension setting should not only secure the diamond but also offer comfort and balance when worn. The ring should sit comfortably on the finger without leaning to one side, ensuring both style and practicality.

Now that you’ve got these practical tips, use Jeweler AI below to find the perfect engagement ring that suits your style and budget:

wide white gold round cut diamond ring  tension settings

Understanding Tension Settings

This is a setting that uses pressure to hold a diamond between the two ends of the metal band, rather than prongs or bezels, for instance.

If your first reaction is, “No way would I trust that to hold a $5,000 diamond in place,” then trust us when we say you’re not alone. But, while this setting appears to break the physical laws, it’s actually perfect proof of quite how unbreakable they are.

While it may look like fragile glass, a diamond is an incredibly strong mineral. In fact, no other naturally occurring substance is strong. It can easily withstand continuous pressure, provided it is placed between those two metal ends with incredible skill and accuracy.

The effect is, in a word, exquisite. And, while the designs of these rings vary significantly, they all carry a somewhat futuristic appearance. The diamond seems to hover above the wearer’s finger, while the metal band seems to offer only the gentlest support to the diamond. It is hard to imagine the level of force between one and the other – or, at first, to believe it won’t disappear within a minute of wear.

Tension Setting yellow gold engagement ring with 1.5 carat diamond
Tension yellow gold engagement ring with 1.5-carat diamond

The Mechanics Behind the Magic: How Tension Settings Work

To make something look so effortless actually requires a lot of effort – not to mention talent, time, and attention. You don’t want your ring to look like it’s been cut, clamped, and hammered into place – you want it to look organic and graceful. But, at the same time, you don’t want that simplicity to compromise the safety of your diamond.

So, the long answer to this question is this: a tension setting can be very secure, or it can be a risk. The only way to put your full confidence in this design is to use a reputable online store like ours, as we ensure that the setting is always of the highest quality. If you do that, then the risk of your diamond working itself loose is incredibly small. It would take a major blow for the tension to be interrupted. Barring that, the diamond will stay put, even if it looks like it’s about to float off into the air like a feather.

Maximizing Brilliance Through Minimal Contact

This setting typically allows a lot of light to reach the diamond and sparkle in many different ways.

Each ring setting offers its own pros and cons when it comes to sparkle. While diamonds will always react in that distinctive, mesmerizing way when moved under a light, candle, or the sun, you’ll only get the maximum effect when that diamond is free from any obstacles.

So, even before it’s been set, its ability to interact with any light sources is being disrupted. Picture a diamond floating in the air, and you’ll be picturing the ‘idea’ conditions for a diamond to sparkle to its full potential.

Of course, levitating diamonds are impossible, but many jewelers would argue that the tension setting is the next best thing, since it holds the diamond up with the least contact possible.

While the exact amount of contact between the band and the diamond will vary, many tension settings leave the diamond’s table, crown, pavilion, and cutlet exposed to the light, with just a small stretch of the girdle pinched by the metal.

This gives you an incredible amount of sparkle – a great option if you’ve invested a lot of money into a highly graded diamond, or if you’ve picked a cut with a very high number of facets (such as the round diamond) and want to gain as much benefit from them as possible.

The Best Diamond Cuts for Tension Settings

Diamonds of any shape can be held within these settings, although more balanced shapes like the round or princess cut typically look best – as well as diamonds with a larger carat weight.

In order to keep the diamond secure, the jeweler cuts a small channel (which will not be visible when the diamond is in place) into the metal. The girdle then fits into these channels, meaning that the diamond cannot shift around, even when pressure is exerted on it from above or below.

What does this mean for your diamond’s cut? It means that a very small amount of the diamond is ‘lost’ within these invisible channels.

For small diamonds, this can mean that they appear smaller when set within the band. Furthermore, if the diamond is cut into a more complex shape, such as a pear or heart, these small details can be obscured unless the stone is set at a particular angle.

This is why most tension settings you see will feature round diamonds. Both the Princess and Radiant cuts also look beautiful in this setting, as, like the Round cut, they feature a large number of facets – amplifying the diamond’s fire and brilliance – while also featuring a more modern, angular look.

Ensuring Longevity in Tension Set Rings

They need to be made to a very high standard and not purchased through one of the many retailers who sacrifice quality control for deals that seem almost too good to be true. 

This also depends on the strength of the metal you choose.

If you’re going for a tension setting, then we strongly recommend you pick a metal that won’t bend or get easily dented. Platinum on its own, or a lower karat gold alloyed with strengthening metals like copper or, of course, platinum. This still leaves you with plenty of choices – the white intensity of platinum, the romantic blush of rose gold, or the unmistakable yellow hue of gold – to make this design the perfect ring for her.

Tension vs Tension Style Settings

Tension-style settings resemble the tension setting, although they do not actually keep the diamond in place via pressure. Instead, a more traditional setting, such as the four-pronged setting, is used to secure the diamond.

These are a great option if you love the effect of the tension setting, but would rather not put all your faith in tension alone. They offer a twist on the classic diamond solitaire ring,and allow you to show off a little more of your chosen metal by making a feature of the band.

Obviously, some of the impact of a true tension setting is lost. While subtle, the prongs will detract from the impression that the stone is somehow hovering a couple of millimeters off the finger, although they will still allow plenty of light to shine through the diamond.

This doesn’t have to be a big deal but, if you’ve got your heart set on that gravity-defying look, you should go for the real deal instead.

Challenges in Resizing Tension Rings

It’s possible to resize tension rings, but it will require a lot of skill and time and may cost a premium for that reason.

The design of this ring relies almost entirely on the band itself, rather than any additional setting that can be soldered to the top of a complete band. As a result, the band of a tension set ring cannot be made smaller or larger without this process affecting the amount of pressure it’s exerting on the diamond.

A jeweler may have to do some pretty major work on the ring where, in other styles, ring resizing is a pretty simple case of stretching or shrinking a part of the band.

Conclusion

If the ring is intended for someone with a modern, sophisticated sense of style – and a whole lot of faith in the laws of physics – then consider this a strong contender.

Remember, however, that this setting is probably not the first thing that pops into most bride-to-be’s heads when they think of the traditional engagement ring. It may be that something going ‘against the grain’ is right up your partner’s alley, or it may be that they’d prefer something a little more ‘expected’.

Either way, the tension setting is a beautiful example of the creativity and ingenuity of jewelers – not to mention a great opportunity to get the most sparkle possible out of your diamond.

Keep in mind that you’ll want to know your bride-to-be’s ring size well in advance, to avoid the risk of having to get it resized – something that may turn out pretty expensive – and that small diamonds can look a little ‘lost’ in this setting.

Nevertheless, it’s a great choice – and one that will be sure to turn more than a few heads in the future.

7 FAQs

  • Q: What Is a Tension Setting Engagement Ring?
  • A: A tension setting engagement ring holds the diamond in place by the pressure exerted by the metal band’s ends, giving the appearance that the stone is floating.
  • Q: Are Tension Settings Secure for Diamonds?
  • A: Yes, when crafted by skilled jewelers, tension settings are secure. The diamond is held firmly by the pressure of the metal, although it appears to be floating.
  • Q: Can Tension Set Rings Be Resized?
  • A: Resizing tension set rings is challenging and often limited due to their unique design. It’s crucial to have the correct ring size at the time of purchase.
  • Q: What Types of Diamonds Work Best with Tension Settings?
  • A: Symmetrical and balanced shapes like round and princess cuts are ideal for tension settings, as they fit securely and complement the setting’s aesthetics.
  • Q: How Do I Care for a Tension Set Engagement Ring?
  • A: Regular cleaning and avoiding harsh physical activities can maintain a tension set ring. It’s also advisable to have periodic checks by a professional for any signs of wear.
  • Q: Is Platinum a Good Choice for Tension Settings?
  • A: Yes, platinum is excellent for tension settings due to its strength and durability, ensuring a secure hold for the diamond.
  • Q: Can Tension Settings Accommodate Different Gemstones Besides Diamonds?
  • A: While tension settings are ideal for diamonds, they can also accommodate other gemstones. However, the stone’s hardness and cut should be considered for secure placement.

Explore the elegance of tension setting engagement rings with JewelerAI. Discover how this innovative design enhances diamond brilliance and redefines modern romance.