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The Unique Beauty of Polki Diamonds: A Guide

By Gary A.

Edited by Brian M.

Published Mar 26, 2022

Edited on Oct 16, 2024

Polki diamonds, with their raw beauty and rich cultural heritage, offer a unique alternative to the traditional sparkle of faceted diamonds, perfect for those seeking something truly special.

Navigate This Guide:

  • Introduction
  • 6 Practical Tips for Buying a Polki Diamond Engagement Ring 
  • Polki Diamonds: A Symbol of Cultural Heritage
  • Types of Polki Diamonds: Syndicate, Zimbabwe, and Khilwas
  • Polki Diamonds: Appearance and Light Performance
  • Polki Diamonds in Modern Jewelry
  • Conclusion
  • 8 FAQs

Introduction

Most of the time, when we say the word ‘diamonds’, we’re not thinking of diamonds in their natural state. Instead, we’re thinking of diamonds as they are when they’re mounted in jewelry, worn on fingers, or placed in jewelry store windows. In other words, we’re thinking of the perfectly cut, multi-faceted, highly brilliant versions of diamonds that are coveted all around the world.

It’s not hard to see why – and, after all, the diamond’s cut is the reason it sparkles the way it does. While even rough, fresh-from-the-ground diamonds are distinctive, they’re a far cry from the polished stones that make their way into engagement rings and fine jewelry.

Polki diamonds sit somewhere in between both extremes. While, within the United States, they have proven nowhere near as popular as cut and polished diamonds, Polki diamonds have a long and fascinating history behind them – and recent years have seen a rising interest in their unique beauty.

Before we dive deeper into the specifics, here are some practical tips to help guide your decision-making process:

6 Practical Tips for Buying a Polki Diamond Engagement Ring 

  • Tip 1: Understanding the Unique Nature of Polki Diamonds: Familiarize yourself with the characteristics of Polki diamonds, which are uncut and unfaceted, and thus differ significantly from traditional cut diamonds. Appreciate their natural, rustic appearance and understand that they won’t have the conventional sparkle of faceted diamonds. 
  • Tip 2: Assessing the Quality of Polki Diamonds: While traditional diamond grading metrics (like the 4Cs) don’t apply to Polki diamonds, pay attention to the stone’s overall appearance. Look for a lustrous glow, the absence of significant blemishes, and a pleasing natural shape. The beauty of Polki diamonds lies in their organic and unique form. 
  • Tip 3: Examining the Craftsmanship of the Jewelry: Since Polki diamonds require a unique setting technique, closely inspect the craftsmanship of the ring. The setting should securely hold the diamond and enhance its natural beauty. High-quality craftsmanship in the gold or silver foil backing and the overall design of the piece is crucial. 
  • Tip 4: Considering the Metal and Design of the Ring: Choose a metal that complements the Polki diamond’s natural hue. Traditional gold, both yellow and white, are popular choices as they highlight the diamond’s organic feel. Additionally, consider designs that resonate with personal style and daily wearability, given the unique nature of Polki jewelry. 
  • Tip 5: Prioritizing Personal Style and Symbolism: Polki diamonds carry a rich cultural heritage, so select a ring that not only appeals aesthetically but also holds personal or symbolic significance. Whether it aligns with traditional values or represents a unique fashion statement, the ring should reflect personal taste and the story you want to tell. 
  • Tip 6: Analyzing the Overall Value: Understand that Polki diamonds are generally more affordable than polished diamonds but also evaluate the ring’s value in terms of design, metal, and craftsmanship. Consider it an investment in a piece of cultural art rather than just a gemstone purchase.

Now that you’ve got these practical tips, use Jeweler AI below to find the perfect engagement ring that suits your style and budget:

a close-up view of a rough, unpolished polki diamond engagement ring. The image shows the ring's unique, organic design, with a large, natural-looking, polki diamond

Polki Diamonds: A Symbol of Cultural Heritage

Polki diamonds are natural diamonds that still resemble their original, rough shape. Most polki diamonds are polished just enough to feel smooth to the touch, although they retain their original shape.

Since Polki diamonds have not been given the precise facets or high polish of diamonds we are used to seeing in so many parts of the world, they are often referred to as ‘uncut’. Since they are often polished, however, some people refer to these stones as ‘unfinished’.

In spite of this, polki diamonds are finished. They hold tremendous significance in India – particularly for bridal jewelry. In fact, polki diamonds originated in ancient India, as a central and precious part of the Maharajas’ ceremonial jewels.

Thousands of years ago, only basic tools were available for shaping these diamonds. Basic filing tools – emery and oil – could be used to slightly modify the original shapes of the stones, but nothing capable of altering their shape into anything resembling the cuts we are familiar with today.

Many Polki diamonds have a lustrous, glossy look to them. While they’re not as smooth to the touch as, say, sea glass, they share a slight resemblance. Their rising popularity likely stems from their organic, natural shapes. While every diamond ever found and cut is totally unique, the polki diamond exhibits that uniqueness more than any other type of diamond. It exhibits the original, earth-formed shape of the stone.

A part of their appeal is the fact that they force the jeweler to design and construct the jewelry around their unique shapes. Rather than working to accommodate a round, square, or rectangular stone, the jeweler has to work with a totally organic and unpredictable shape. The result is something incredibly natural and totally unique.

Types of Polki Diamonds: Syndicate, Zimbabwe, and Khilwas

Three: syndicate, Zimbabwe, and Khilwas.

Syndicate and Zimbabwe Polki are considered to be the highest quality, though Khilwas is not far behind.

Another influential style of Indian jewelry known as Kundan is created using glass stone (sometimes known as ‘glass polki’ but, in the US, typically referred to as crystal or rhinestone). Kundan is not made using real diamonds, but polki will always refer to real diamond.

Polki diamonds shine a lot brighter than Kundan and are a lot more valuable (and, obviously, more durable, too).

The Origins of Polki Diamonds

While polki diamonds first came into existence in India, rough or ‘uncut’ diamonds are available from many diamond-producing countries around the world.

Their growing popularity – a result of the natural, rustic look they offer to brides searching for something more unique and unexpected than the traditional ring designs – means that a growing number of Western jewelers are embracing the tradition of crafting pieces around polki or ‘rough’ diamonds.

Polki Diamonds: Appearance and Light Performance

Polki diamonds don’t sparkle like the diamonds you’re used to seeing. Polki diamonds have a bright, eye-capturing quality. When polished, they can appear almost luminescent, but they don’t produce fire and brilliance like cut diamonds do.

In polki diamonds, you can see an echo of the way light reflects off the facets of a cut diamond. Polki diamonds aren’t smooth like pebbles – they’ve got a lot of texture, and points that the light will pass between as the wearer moves under the light source. It’s beautiful but subdued – very natural, and very understated.

But, if you came here looking for something that resembles what you’re (probably) used to seeing, then you’re in the wrong place. A diamond’s ability to produce that endless display of white brilliance and multicolored fire is dependent on its cut. Even the slightest error or oversight in the cutting process will reduce a diamond’s sparkle since each facet needs to be perfectly proportioned and arranged on the diamond’s surface.

For that reason alone, you can imagine why a diamond that hasn’t been given any facets won’t be able to compete with cut diamonds in terms of sparkle. Sure, sparkle isn’t everything – but, to people who have been dreaming of the beautifully brilliant diamonds in the jewelry store windows, it’s pretty much non-negotiable.

Does that mean polki diamonds can’t be used in engagement rings? Absolutely not. Plenty of people around the world have chosen polki diamonds for their bridal jewelry – not least of all because of their significance in India. We would, however, advise caution if your partner has never expressed any interest in these unique stones.

Polki Diamond Cost Considerations

Polki and diamond are the same thing but, compared with cut and polished diamonds, polki tends to be the less expensive option, since there are fewer steps involved in their creation and lesser quality stones tend to be selected.

Polki diamonds are precious in the same way cut diamonds are – they’re a rare, natural resource mined from a relatively small list of places in the world. They are all produced by nature over the course of more than a billion years, and only found as a result of significant mining practices, meaning they all hold significant value.

A lot of the time, the Polki diamonds are lower in quality (in terms of clarity and color) than the diamonds selected for cutting and polishing. Some people prefer the more rustic colors of Polki diamonds – and, for obvious reasons, inclusions pose less of a problem when you’re not able to look through a glassy facet to see them. This does mean that the diamonds used tend to hold lower value than diamonds selected to go the ‘traditional’ route.

One thing to keep in mind is that polki diamonds are harder to work with. As we mentioned, they help jewelers to create incredibly unique and bold designs, but they’re also a challenge. The jeweler needs to learn the specifics of each diamond they work with – the shape and texture – rather than being able to draw upon their existing understanding of cuts like the Round Brilliant or Emerald.

For this reason, polki diamond engagement rings (and any other jewelry) aren’t often significantly cheaper than traditional engagement rings and fine diamond jewelry. It takes an incredible amount of skill and expertise to create beautiful pieces.

The Cost of a Polki Diamond

Polki diamonds can vary in price from a few hundred dollars to thousands of dollars.

While polki diamonds are priced and treated differently to cut and polished diamonds, the price will still depend on the size and quality of the diamond you’re looking at. The exact same rules apply, in the sense that smaller polki diamonds with a less attractive color or a major inclusion will be significantly cheaper than much larger and more attractive polki diamonds.

What’s more, it totally depends on the jeweler. As we mentioned, working with polki diamonds is a tricky process, and each piece has to be totally unique in order to accommodate the diamond’s shape. A larger investment of skill and time will also raise the price.

Polki Diamonds in Modern Jewelry

At WillYou.com, one of our top priorities is educating shoppers on the benchmarks of quality they should always pay attention to (and which ones they shouldn’t) when shopping for a diamond. Polki diamonds turns the entire subject on its head, however, and makes the process of finding a diamond totally different. 

Polki Diamonds and the Four Cs

The GIA does not grade rough diamonds, so shoppers won’t search by factors like clarity and color.

Instead, shoppers are expected to search on a much more subjective basis. Each Polki diamond looks a lot more distinct from the next than, say, two Round Brilliant diamonds. While those two Round Brilliants will be totally different when you start to look at the specifics (i.e., the Four Cs) they will have been cut according to the same design.

The shape of any polki diamond is almost totally unique. Sure, most of them are polished just enough that they feel smoother than diamond fresh out of the earth, but the polisher will use a very light touch, in order to preserve the organic shape.

As a result, the idea is for shoppers to see what shapes they gravitate towards. It’s more of an instinctual, individual process than the process of shopping for a cut and polished, GIA certified diamond.

As we mentioned above, lower quality stones are generally used for polki diamonds, since the point is not to create something that looks perfect. Shoppers aren’t often so wary of diamonds with a hint of color. The experience is more casual.

Maintaining and Preserving Polki Diamonds

Any jewelry containing polki diamonds can be soaked in mild, soapy water and gently wiped with a cloth or soft-bristle toothbrush.

As you probably know by now, diamonds are incredibly resilient and durable. Regular wear can cause them to be dulled by oils and dirt, but this will be very easy to remove. Polki diamonds are just as resilient as the cut, polished diamonds sold by jewelers across the country.

Keep in mind that, since the surface of a polki diamond is lacking the smooth, glassy finish of a cut diamond, it can take on dust and oil more readily, and look dirty a little faster. This doesn’t need to be a big deal, since cleaning a diamond is a straightforward process, but it’s worth keeping in mind. 

As with any jewelry, it’s best to avoid any makeup, body oils, perfume, or hand creams from building up – particularly in any tight or small crevices. 

Storing Polki Jewelry   

As with any precious jewelry, you should invest in a good jewelry box and store each item separately from the rest.

In other words, none of the pieces should be touching. You can do this by placing each piece in its own compartment, or by individually wrapping your jewelry in muslin cloths.

Conclusion

It’s hard not to love polki diamonds, for the simple reason that they are just about as natural and as organic as it gets. When it comes to appreciating the raw, wild powers of nature – the long and complicated history behind every diamond mined from the earth – polki diamonds are the perfect illustration. Their significance for traditional Indian ceremonies is also a major part of that rich history, and a beautiful example of the power diamonds have held for thousands of years of human history.

If you’re used to seeing cut and polished diamond engagement rings, then there are some obvious drawbacks to going for a polki diamond instead of a cut diamond. Polki diamonds can’t offer any of the fire or brilliance we associate with diamonds, and they’re often noticeably lower quality than the diamonds selected for cutting and polishing.

They look great in jewelry, which often has an organic, free-hand feel to it, thanks to the irregular shapes these diamonds hold. They make a beautiful addition to any jewelry box but, for the most part, have not become a major rival to the traditional engagement ring in the United States.

8 FAQs

  • Q: What Are Polki Diamonds? 
    A: Polki diamonds are uncut, unpolished diamonds, retaining their original rough form. They offer a unique, rustic aesthetic different from the conventional sparkle of cut diamonds. 
  • Q: How Do Polki Diamonds Differ from Traditional Diamonds? 
    A: Unlike traditional diamonds that are cut and polished for brilliance, Polki diamonds are valued for their natural, raw appearance, showcasing their inherent beauty without extensive processing. 
  • Q: Are Polki Diamonds Real Diamonds? 
    A: Yes, Polki diamonds are real diamonds. They are diamonds in their most natural state, not altered by the standard cutting and polishing processes. 
  • Q: What Should I Look for When Buying Polki Diamond Jewelry? 
    A: Look for the luster and natural shape of the diamond, the quality of craftsmanship in the jewelry, and how the design and metal complement the stone’s raw beauty. 
  • Q: Can Polki Diamonds be Used in Engagement Rings? 
    A: Absolutely. Polki diamonds make for unique and culturally rich engagement rings. However, they provide a different aesthetic than traditional faceted diamonds. 
  • Q: How Do I Care for Polki Diamond Jewelry? 
    A: Clean them with mild soapy water and a soft brush, and store them separately in a dry place to prevent damage and maintain their luster. 
  • Q: Are Polki Diamonds Expensive? 
    A: While Polki diamonds can be more affordable than cut diamonds, the overall value depends on the craftsmanship, metal, and design of the jewelry piece. They are often seen as valuable pieces of cultural art. 
  • Q: What Makes Polki Diamonds Special? 
    A: Polki diamonds are special due to their historical significance, natural form, and the unique, handcrafted approach required to set them in jewelry, making each piece one-of-a-kind.

Discover the enchantment of Polki diamonds with JewelerAI – your pathway to an engagement ring that resonates with history and elegance.