By Gary A.
Edited by Brian M.
Published Mar 26, 2022
Edited on Sep 24, 2024
With their sleek, elegant lines and mesmerizing “hall of mirrors” effect, step cut diamonds bring a timeless sophistication to engagement rings that appeals to those seeking something truly unique.
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There are many diamond shapes out there. Some, like the Round Brilliant, Oval, and Pear, are true classics of engagement ring design. Others, like the Rose and Mine cuts, are verging on defunct, primarily because their simplicity (a result of their age) means that they are lacking in the sparkle and bright appearance that today’s most popular cuts are able to offer.
Then again, an abundance of sparkle is not everything – and this is a fact that is reaffirmed every single day by the step cuts. In many ways the perfect opposites of the brilliant cuts, with their dazzling facet patterns and firework-displays of fire and brilliance, the step cuts are a lot more understated, though equally as beguiling to a diamond lover.
Slightly less conventional choices for bridal jewelry, but still classics nonetheless, here is what jewelers mean when they refer to ‘step cuts’.
Before we dive deeper into the specifics, here are some practical tips to help guide your decision-making process:
Now that you’ve got these practical tips, use Jeweler AI below to find the perfect engagement ring that suits your style and budget:
In a step cut, the facets are arranged parallel to one another, and to the edges of the diamond. This stands in direct contrast to the brilliant and modified brilliant cuts, which feature a higher number of smaller facets, often cut into triangular shapes arranged intricately together.
The most popular step cut, particularly for engagement rings, is the Emerald cut. This cut features a rectangular shape with beveled corners, and a glossy, elegant appearance perfect for vintage, 1920s inspired ring designs.
Another popular step cut is the Asscher – although this shape is also known as the square Emerald cut, as a result of the close similarities between the two shapes. Again, you’ll notice the longer, larger facets that comprise the Asscher look very different to the facet patterns found on other popular diamond shapes.
The Baguette cut is also an easily recognizable step cut, although significantly less common as a center stone than either the Emerald or Asscher. Featuring only 14 facets (very few, compared with the Emerald’s 57), the Baguette is a much better accent than it is a center stone. You’ll find it on the shoulders of engagement rings, or channel set within shanks, rather than taking center stage.
This is largely down to light performance – a major talking point when you’re looking at step cut diamonds.
Art Deco is an art movement that utilizes geometry, straight lines, and strong, architectural shapes. It is most commonly associated with the 1920s and 30s.
Art Deco is an incredibly popular and versatile style in jewelry. It is one of the best outlets for utilizing elements like the Cathedral setting – grand and elegant, but not too elaborate – bezels or v-prongs, and some truly unique arrangements of accent stones that stray from the traditional halo and pavé designs.
Step cuts shine and sparkle, but not in the same way that brilliant and modified brilliant diamonds sparkle. Step cut facets are longer and larger, meaning that there is a noticeable difference in light performance.
If you held a Round Brilliant diamond in one hand, and an Emerald cut diamond of comparable weight and quality in the other hand, then there’s a good chance your eye would be drawn immediately to the hand holding the Round Brilliant. Even if you prefer the look of the Emerald cut, the Round Brilliant is undeniably the brighter, more sparkly, and more ‘eye capturing’ option.
Step cut diamonds produce fire and brilliance, though without the ‘glitter’ of the brilliant and modified brilliants. Under a light source, you will notice flashes of white and colored light (provided, of course, that the diamond has been cut to a high standard, and good proportions). The effect is highly valued within the jewelry world, and some of the most influential diamonds ever mined were cut with these facets.
The Krupp Diamond is, arguably, the most influential Asscher cut the world has ever seen, although it has also featured on engagement rings worn by Jessica Alba and Pippa Middleton, sister to the Duchess of Cambridge. More popular still, the Emerald has been worn by Princess Grace Kelly of Monaco, Beyoncé, and Angelina Jolie.
If you consider yourself a fan of the step cut, but have no idea how it would translate into a ring design, then it’s worth considering some of the most influential step-cut engagement rings the world has ever seen.
Beyoncé’s 18 carat engagement ring may be out of 99% of budgets, but the classic design, which combines the bold Emerald cut with a split shank decorated in pavé. The design is easily translated into something more wearable (and affordable), while retaining that strong silhouette. Jennifer Lopez and Amal Clooney also opted for the Emerald cut.
Asscher engagement rings have been worn by Jessica Alba, Pippa Middleton, Princess Madeleine of Sweden, while Princess Grace of Monaco famously wore a 10.48 Emerald engagement ring, flanked by two Baguette cut diamonds, created by the legendary Maison Cartier.
And, of course, there’s no point overlooking the Krupp Diamond itself – also famously known as the Elizabeth Taylor Diamond, for obvious reasons. This ring cut encapsulates the glamor and opulence of Hollywood’s golden age – and, with it, an incredible aesthetic.
Step cuts may require you to forfeit the electrifying sparkle of the more popular diamond shapes, but there are plenty of pay-offs to be had.
There’s no denying that the step cuts are highly captivating, but they’re not the right choice for every engagement ring…
The lower popularity of the step cuts primarily comes down to light performance, rather than the appearance of the diamonds themselves. One of diamond’s most unique and valued traits is its ability to create light performances unlike any other gemstone out there, and that incredible combination of fire and brilliance we see in the Oval, Cushion, Princess, and, of course, the Round Brilliant are just too much to pass up for many people.
We mentioned earlier on in the article that the step cuts are great for showing off the diamond’s inner beauty but, obviously, that means the diamond you choose really does need to have a strong inner beauty in the first place.
Eye clean diamonds are available at plenty of clarity grades and, even for a cut like the Emerald or Asscher, you won’t need to go for the most expensive options at the VVS and IF clarity grades just to find something worth buying. That said, you probably won’t find anything good at the lower end of the scale, either.
While the modified brilliant shapes are great for concealing slight flaws amid those many, small facets and the continuous flashes of fire and brilliance, the ‘inner workings’ of the step cuts are laid bare.
The same rules apply: find a diamond that has no noticeable color or inclusions. The search may just be a little tougher.
A yellow or rose gold setting will impact the diamond’s appearance
one of the reasons it’s not worth investing in a particularly high color grade –say, the Colorless grades D, E, and F – is because a colorful setting will inevitably reflect through the diamond to some extent, essentially undermining the extra investment you made into one of the top color grades.
This certainly doesn’t have to be a negative. Many, many jewelers and jewelry wearers love the look of a gold band reflecting through its diamond, and the way those yellow or rosy hues influence the distinctive pattern of the step cut.
It is, simply, a question of whether or not you and your partner like it, or prefer to keep the diamond looking bright, clear, and colorless.
From the classic solitaire to the ultra-sparkly three stone engagement ring, the step cuts are versatile to be worked into almost any design. Here are a few of our favorites.
Take advantage of the Emerald cut’s rectangular silhouette, and transform it into a much more modern classic by setting it horizontally across the shank, rather than in-line with the finger. It’s surprising how such a small change has such a big impact on the traditional solitaire design, and how aligning the Emerald cut’s facets with the shank creates a strikingly linear effect.
Another way to highlight the elegant shapes of the step cut’s facets is to set the diamond within a minimalistic and highly structured bezel setting. Doing so effectively creates an ‘outline’ for the stone, and mirrors the shapes that reflect through the table and deep into the center of the diamond.
A bezel setting does mean that your diamond’s ability to draw in (and, consequently, emit) light will be more limited, but you could off-set this by incorporating a pavé setting into the shank – or simply focus on highlighting the diamond’s beauty beyond its sparkle, which is what the step cuts are so effective at doing.
Whether you choose to go the Grace Kelly route and combine your Emerald cut with a tapered Baguette on either side, or incorporate a little extra sparkle into your ring by combining the emerald with two smaller Pear, Marquise, or Round Brilliant diamonds, these diamonds offer the perfect central stone for any trilogy ring.
As always, work diligently to find the ring you want with reputable vendors. Step cuts are a beautiful choice if you want something elegantly understated, and incontrovertibly classic.
Step-cuts are stunning in their own way, and they’re a great way to celebrate a beautiful diamond with excellent clarity and color. Keep in mind that a lot of people expect a brilliant or modified brilliant, but that, if your partner is a fan of the step cut, there are some excellent options out there for engagement rings.